are jg bar ten mags compatable with a tsd sd700?

Date: Tuesday, 2011-05-03, 9:14 PM | Message # 1

Group: Junior Operator

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i will soon be acquiring a tsd sd700 with no mags and was wondering if the jg bar 10 mags would work. also if anyone is selling mags that would work id be happy to buy them, thanks

fuzzywuzzy

Date: Tuesday, 2011-05-03, 10:54 PM | Message # 2

Group: Senior Operator

Messages: 116

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If I can find wherever the heck I put my mags I can bring one on the 14th to test compatibility (I most likely won't make it this weekend but we'll see).

I'll be doing some organizing this weekend, so hopefully I'll come across them.

dman58

Date: Thursday, 2011-05-05, 6:38 PM | Message # 3

Group: Junior Operator

Messages: 50

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alright thanks

Added (2011-05-05, 5:41 PM)
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i just bought and fixed up the sd700, it still is shooting low fps for some reason... my guess is a worn out spring and possibly a bad oring, does anyone recommend a good spring and possibly piston, or have another idea of what the issue could be? this is my first time working on a bolt action, however all the internals seemed pretty simple. also i was wondering if anyone has a lathe that possibly they or both they and me could use to create a new piston and spring guide. i have alot of experience on machines btw, i just dont own any. thankyou!

Added (2011-05-05, 6:38 PM)
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alright, i just found the main source of the problem, the hopup bucking is old and stretched so it doesnt get a good seal.probably a new bucking, spring, tightbore, xring, and possibly piston and spring guide will bring it up to spec... honestly i really wish i had a lathe, cause i dont like dishing out over $100 for parts (piston and spring guide) i could easily make myself for under $15... :/

Message edited by dman58 - Thursday, 2011-05-05, 9:26 PM

fuzzywuzzy

Date: Friday, 2011-05-06, 9:58 PM | Message # 4

Group: Senior Operator

Messages: 116

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Honestly the piston is the least of your worries. Due to the lack of rails on a basr piston track, you can just rotate the piston if it begins to wear out. When you upgrade the spring, the parts you really need to worry about are both of the sears in the trigger mech. Best thing is to replace the entire trigger set before looking into a stronger spring.

The best approach is to replace all of the compression parts and get maximum consistency and fps for the lower spring rating. So you're looking at a new bucking, tightbore, cylinder head, hop up chamber (if necessary). A spring guide is a nice reinforcement as well and will add a small fps boost as well if it comes with the spacer.

Constructing airsoft parts like a piston or spring guide without the exact dimensions and tolerances is actually more demanding than it might seem. It's a slightly faster process when you're making multiple parts and have the tried and true process to follow. It would be somewhat trial and error when making something like a piston and any small mistake could scratch or ruin the cylinder which would be costly to replace. Or even a turning a diameter too small would require more material which costs money as well. You'd have to have the right size delrin rings and would probably have to be built in two separate parts in which the base screws onto the main body of the piston. And because it's airsoft we use metric which are not standard for most lathes. You'd most likely have to change out the gears on the lathe ect ect. For a one time part, it is probably better to just buy it as it would cost more to make it when factoring in the time.

dman58

Date: Saturday, 2011-05-07, 10:07 PM | Message # 5

Group: Junior Operator

Messages: 50

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alright, thanks for the help. regarding the lathe i would basically duplicate the piston and spring guide from the stock ones out of aluminum or steel instead. i have done this type of duplicating work before, it just takes time, measuring every few passes with the calipers. but im not sure what you mean by changing out the gears in the lathe... you just clamp in the steel, set the calipers to metric, and your ready to go, right?

fuzzywuzzy

Date: Sunday, 2011-05-08, 11:31 AM | Message # 6

Group: Senior Operator

Messages: 116

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My point was just that calipers are hardly very accurate, and companies like PDI make their products to far more precise standards. Each dimension is as such for a reason to relieve as much stress as possible from other parts and to have perfect alignment. To measure a part and then duplicate it using the same measuring system can double the error.
Changing gears in a lathe is to make metric threading. A one piece piston is not ideal.

dman58

Date: Monday, 2011-05-09, 8:15 PM | Message # 7

Group: Junior Operator

Messages: 50

Status: Offline

alright. calipers in the machine shop i would be using are accurate to the nearest thousanth, which shouldnt be too bad. i finished the design on inventor yesterday, and it isnt a direct copy of the stock one, it is two piece with nylon spacers and a nylon air break. the threading is actually 5/8-20 CW, and all measurements were made in standard system. the design is based off the other parts, like the spring diameter and distance between the lock lip thing on the back in the foward and rear position. the design was based off a pdi piston, exept there is no milled slot through the side. if you would like, i could post a pdf on the site but the dimensions did not appear because it exported wrong from the software

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